Leave Africa

I've been reading a bit about the Kony2012 2.0 follow up and even more blog posts and news articles since the initial Kony 2012 movie.

The conversation about Americans and our savior complex is interesting. The article by Teju Cole, which you can find here gives an interesting perspective. I could not help but think that in his critique he was also falling into the same savor complex. However, he has some valid points.

It actually reminded me of a heated debate in one of my grad school courses. The class was a communication and advocacy course: how to put together an advocacy campaign, etc. We were told to choose a topic that we would use throughout the course, at the end culminated by a speech that appealed to our audience to action. I was young and new to the development world. Most of my work experience was US-based but I wanted to branch out into the international realm. So I chose a controversial topic based on three months work experience in a slum outside of Nairobi. Land rights. To make it even better, there were four or five Kenyans in my class. I spoke with all of them before I decided to commit to the topic. I wanted their opinion, I wanted to know if they would be offended if I chose a controversial topic from their country. Most were okay with me learning more about their country, land rights, and tribal differences. One man, was a bit more hesitant to give me his blessing. However in the end, he said okay.

By chance, the topic of land rights in this particular slum had become popular news in Nairobi. Land reform was happening, construction of new buildings, moving people from their old homes to new ones, etc. By the time the course was over, things had dramatically changed within the country. Something I was not expecting. My final presentation had to be changed significantly because what I had started out advocating for was indeed happening while the class was taking place. However the way I came across started a heated conversation: should Americans be involved in development or should we allow for locals to address their problems?

My personal opinion which I spoke about in my original blog post about Kony2012 is that local people should be the ones to create change in their communities and should first ask for help from the outside, international community before anyone comes blazing in to help. This opinion was, in fact, strongly influenced by this advocacy class.

The last class of the course we had a three hour discussion about the involvement of westerners in international development. I was, as a white American woman, a minority in my academic program and also this class. Eighty percent of the class came from emerging countries and economies. In the end, many people in this class were personally hurt by the very blunt and forward comments by my classmates. What went down would have been a scene from a movie if the UN all of a sudden just said what they wanted to say without thinking about the repercussions. One of the very few comments I remember stuck with me. "Americans, you need to get out of Africa and let us Africans handle our own problems." I was blown away. The very Kenyan man who had told me to seek out this topic in this class just told me, as an American, to never enter his country again. I left hurt, confused, and wondering why I had quit my job, moved to Boston, and enrolled in an international development program when my classmates did not even want me involved.

I had the chance to speak with this Kenyan later, to follow up with his comment. Other Africans came up to me in the days following to say that they did not agree with this man's statement, that they wanted me to part of changing their countries, but not in a top-down, Americans know-all mentality. They wanted me to work with them instead of Americans controlling them. For the record, this Kenyan man actually became a good friend of mine in graduate school. And I thank him for making such a bold statement in an advocacy class because in the end, it changed my perspective. I will never understand the culture as well as a local. I will always have the option to use my blue passport and bail when things go wrong. I will always have the ability to change my career and find something new to do in the United States, find a man, get married, buy a house, and forget about the troubles of the world. My classmates, my friends, do not have that luxury.

So in our effort as Americans to try and save the world, we forget that we can not save the world. We can not tell an entire continent what to do. The Kony2012 2.0 video shows more Africans than Americans, which is good. It was also the first time that I have ever seen the organization demonstrate any depth in their understanding of the problem. It was the first time I have ever seen them acknowledge that they are not the only ones who are working on this issue. Yet I am still not ready to jump on this bandwagon. Namely because I still have no clue what they are in doing in Uganda (and now the Central African Countries) except put up a radio tower and follow Kony around the bush. Invisible Children is still an advocacy group to rally the US government to capture Kony. Someday a Harvard Business School Case Study will be written about them and their use of video to rally a world around a cause. I'm just wondering what the ending will be. American superheros capture the vilan? Or Ugandans step up and use the resources of the world to decide what they want to happen.

Kony2012 Part Two

Invisible Children's follow up video was released today. I'm still formulating my opinions and will post a follow up. But in the mean time, below is the video to watch it.



Or you can find it here.

Vote for Fount!

Do you want to help a good organization win a $1000 grant?

Do you want an organization to help empower local community-based organizations to take ownership over their own development?

Do you want to help advance Ugandan women's understanding of reproductive health? So that Ugandan youth will know that washing with coke does not make someone a virgin again. How HIV/AIDS is spread. How a child is formed within a womb?

The organization in which I worked for in Uganda, www.fountofmercy.org, has been nominated to win a grant from Oxfam America.

Pretty cool, eh?

All you have to do is click this link right here and vote for Fount of Mercy.

So that the women that I was standing with a year ago in the picture above, will have a better understanding of their bodies in the future.

Kony 2012

This past week, Invisible Children's (IC) new video went viral. I watched it, followed a bit on twitter, and read a few blog posts and news articles. I originally did not want to post about the Kony2012 campaign. Mostly, because I have never been to Gulu so I feel inadequate to give you my assessment. That being said, it seems like everyone has an opinion on the topic and the lack of experience in Gulu doesn't hold anyone else back. Given that I have lived in Uganda and have been to northern Uganda (just not Gulu town), I feel like I should at least give you my opinion. So here it is.

First, if you have not seen the video, you can find it here: Invisible Children (IC). You should watch it. Now on to my opinion.

Joseph Kony is an evil man who has abducted children and used them for his benefit. He is the head of the Lord's Resistance Army (LRA). For lack of a better, more concise overview, I am going to refer you to wikipedia's article here. With the LRA, Kony has destroyed countless communities and lives in northern Uganda. He is currently wanted by the International Criminal Court (ICC) for crimes against humanity and war crimes. If you click on the link, you will notice he is not the only one from the LRA that is wanted.

Which leads me to my first question, why does Invisible Children only name him in their video? I really have no idea. Except that it is easier to have a Kony 2012 campaign than a Kony/Otti/Odhiambo/Ognwen 2012 Campaign. Right? Not to mention that some of those names are kinda hard to pronounce by English speakers. And I digress.

So we have this man and his army who have done terrible things to the country. I can personally attest to the atrocities since I have friends who have been effected by the LRA. However, the worst of the LRA's destruction pretty much ended in 2005. Northern Uganda is rebuilding, healing, and moving forward. Which leads me to my next question, why is Invisible Children focusing on a war that has mostly fizzled out? On something that, yes, has destroyed the country, but is not at all the worst of the country's problems at the moment.

Perhaps I should list some of those problems out for you:
1. Lack of good health care and also a plethora of diseases such as: the Mysterious Nodding Disease, malaria, and HIV/AIDS.

2.Economic inflation. Some of my friends who still live in Uganda have shared with me that inflation has increased by 25% in the last year. This article,which you can find here, outlines the inflation rate in the past year. Thankfully, it is slowly coming down.

3. Insufficient electricity. My dear friend helps fund a hospital in Uganda, and because of the lack of electricity, she reports that more than 100 people have died because they were unable to run the necessary equipment to help them stay alive. This is an extreme example of lack of electricity. It also inhibits businesses. Imagine if the electricity didn't work in your office for an entire week with absolutely nothing to be done about it.

4. The Karamojong people. Google it.

5. Finally, I am going to mention politics. It is my opinion that with sending US troops to Uganda to help eliminate Kony, you are also strengthening Museveni, his army, and his power within the country. For better or worse. President Museveni has been in power 26 years and will be for a total of 30 until the next election comes around. Museveni has advanced the country a great deal since the Idi Amin regime. However, there are also some things to question about him as well: Google "Museveni Crackdown" if you would like to learn more about him.

So why is the IC so determined to catch Kony when his capture, while surely significant, is not a huge development issue within the country currently? My list of five are only five, there are so many other things to be addressed as well! Perhaps it is because Jason Russell (founder of Invisible Children) and his co-founders made a promise to a boy in northern Uganda- to do everything they could to end the war. This is a noble promise and one that they have worked hard to achieve. However, is this the only reason why someone continues to promote this agenda? My other thoughts are negative. Again, I am hesitant to say them. Mostly because I have had friends who have worked for Invisible Children, of which none of them do now. Another reason why IC made the film was promotional for themselves. They will get a lot of money from this campaign. It will help drive their organization forward, rally a group of people in the US- and all over the world- to one single cause: capture the bad guy.

Some of you might question my thought about money. International Development is an industry. It finds causes, markets them, and gets money to help solve problems. However, these problems are so complex that is it very difficult to solve them by eliminating one person, or sending food to a group of people, or giving a box of toys to children who have very little. Humans are complex. Ugandan people are complex. The politics of Uganda and central Africa are complex. Eliminating one man from the mix of complexities will not solve everyone's problems. It will complete Invisible Children's mission, it will make American college students feel like they have done something, but it will not solve Uganda's problems. Only Ugandans can solve its problems. They can solicit the help of others, other aid organizations, churches, international politics, countries, and the UN for help- but it comes down to the fact that Ugandans must solve their own problems. They know the situation better than anyone else. They know the needs better than anyone else.

So are we, as US citizens, as global citizens, listening to their needs? Their desires to change their lives? Or are we following a bunch of wealthy southern California guys in fighting the big bad Kony? I would rather listen to Ugandans tell me what they need than listen to Invisible Children tell me what Ugandans need. What about you?

Normal.

I've been told by my only loyal reader on this blog that I need to write a blog post. I'll be honest, I think I am a terrible blogger. Blogging takes time and dedication. I have the time, but apparently not the dedication. I think desire gets thrown into the mix too... and creativity. I often think, who the heck would want to read about my life? Apparently my best friend does. Which is funny, because she knows more about what is going on in my life right now than pretty much anyone else.

Perhaps her timing could not be more perfect. It has been one year since I left Uganda and this week I have been thinking about it quite a bit. I think I have hit all re-entry, culture shock, and craziness of leaving one country and entering another that happens. I have written a master's thesis, traveled to Boston a few times, and managed to graduate. I flew to Sri Lanka to be able to watch a good friend get married and felt like I was the queen of the world by staying in some posh places. In the process of returning to the states, I got stuck in Qatar and feared for my life, cried like a fool, and was in complete awe of the amount of sand that the country held. Maybe I should have been in more awe of their oil. So technically I can check off the Middle East and Arabian Peninsula off of my- travel-to-one-day list. I also really regret not buying the dates in the duty-free store in the Doha airport.

I returned to Minnesota and life got predictably normal. Because lets face it, normal people don't travel and move and change addresses as much as I have in the last five years. I'm figuring out normal and it is growing on me. Normal means making dinner for my parents at night and getting great joy out of their satisfaction. Normal means being able to see my friend's babies toddlers grow and learn and change. Normal means teaching said toddler how to draw snowmen and getting him addicted to it. (Sorry Beth!) Normal means spending hours and hours on end applying for more than 150 jobs and still being unemployed; and then having your friends/colleagues tell you they have applied to double your amount and are still unemployed. Normal means trying to figure out how to make friends in a normal setting. Normal means trying to explain on a volunteer application why you have more than seven addresses in the last five years and not sound crazy. Normal means shoveling the limited amount of snow we have gotten. Normal means being pasty white (because I live in MN) and being okay with it. Normal means hanging out with my cousins on a weekly basis. Normal means meeting with dear friends who have equally un-normal lives but somehow have ended up normal with me. Normal means drinking more, wait for it- green tea than coffee. Yes, I did just admit to the world that I am drinking more green tea right now than coffee.

So in the midst of all this normal, I find it hard to write a blog. Yet people get famous by writing a blog on their normal lives. But is that really what I want? Not really. I don't really want to be a famous blogger. Maybe, just maybe, I am joining the ranks of normal bloggers. Mediocre bloggers. The thing is, wherever someone is in life it seems so normal to them that they don't think anyone would be interested in reading about their lives. Because to them, it seems boring. I even felt like that towards the end of my time in Uganda. Yet we fail to realize that our normal will never be normal to anyone else. Yes, other people may relate- but my reality in all its conditions will never be like anyone else. wow. Did I just talk myself into blogging? Maybe I did. But here is the thing. Do I have the desire and time? I have the time (remember the 150 failed job applications?) but do I have the desire? Probably not... at least not until my dear friend tells me to write another blog post.

And for kicks, since blog posts are always more interesting with pictures, I have included one with my mother and I doing a normal winter thing of visiting the conservatory.

Did you notice the pasty white skin? Yeah, apparently that is normal for Minnesota in January.

Jackfruit? Really?

I am totally and completely craving jackfruit. You can see it below. This sweet, sticky fruit was a staple in my village diet. And this past week I have been craving it like mad. Seriously? Jackfruit!



Jackfruit was sold on the corner of my street by a sweet woman. Jackfruit grew in my backyard. Jackfruit was served at my village goodbye. Jackfruit is everywhere in Uganda!

I am craving it to the point that I googled it to see if I could buy it in Minnesota- nothing came up. I then went to amazon, the place where if you need it in the states- they sell it. You can buy canned jackfruit. Now that sounds disgusting. Jackfruit, canned in syrup? I'll just say nasty. So my next step is to go to the African store in my town. I'm hoping they will have some leads for me. If not, I might just be crazy enough to buy a plane ticket back to Uganda. Okay- maybe not that crazy. But what happens when I am pregnant and craving crazy international foods unavailable in the states? Let us just hope that never happens.

Happy Thanksgiving!

I had a wonderful day celebrating this American holiday. While the Ugandan society continued on in the rhythm of life, I paused to celebrate my favorite holiday of the year.

I watched youtube videos of the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade with my housemate. We laughed about old trends, how the announcers always tell you how many people it takes to pull a balloon and what its size equivalent it is so that you have an understanding of how big snoopy is or sponge bob.

We moved to the kitchen where we listened to Christmas music and made stuffing and glazed carrots for our Thanksgiving celebration. It truly felt like I was home (minus the cold weather and the family). Oh- and there were political parades that went down my street banging drums, blowing their horns, and screaming.

The morning passed quickly and soon I found myself with five Americans, two Ugandans, and a three-year-old Indian boy in a car on the way to celebrate Thanksgiving. This year, I didn’t cross the Mississippi river but the Nile! We went over the river to “the other side” where we drove an hour, through dirt roads, past the sugar cane to get to an orphanage where we celebrated. I joined twenty-two missionaries* and their children and we feasted! I am sure that our dinner table looked very similar to yours- except my turkey was killed in my backyard, my pumpkin pie came from boiling real pumpkin for hours, and the onion rings on the green bean casserole were deep-fried at home. However, it was the same and tasty! The grand prize went to a non-traditional dessert of chocolate mint cookies. Yum!

The crowd:


It was a wonderful time talking with everyone, learning about their work, and their lives. I even met a girl who was volunteering as a nurse from my hometown. It turns out that I know her sister! What a small, small world.

After our feast, we began to worship the Lord. We opened the hymnbook and began to sing, gazing at the amazing green vista. Here I was, with thirty or so people from different parts of the US, many of whom I had just met, and yet we worshipped. Then we gave testimony of why we were thankful.- one after another listing what God had done in the past year. I felt so blessed to be part of this group of people.


The view of the country side while we feasted.


After I came home from Thanksgiving dinner, I skyped with my family. I actually felt like I was home, sitting in the kitchen, with my cousins and brothers, helping my mom cook. It was such a good time of talking! When I finished talking with them, I called my Gram. This dear woman can probably relate to my life in Uganda better than any other family member I have. She grew up on a farm, she took care of the chickens, made soap, washed the clothes by hand, and wore (gasp) skirts. When I told her that we had turkeys in our backyard before they slaughtered them, she didn’t respond like my normal peers in the states- her response was to ask whether they were black or white turkeys. Apparently, their color plays a role in how they taste!




*Missionaries often receive harsh criticism from development practitioners. While I could easily write an entire blog on my opinion of missions and development, I will leave you with this comment: The majority of professional development workers and their NGOs have moved to the northern part of this country, leaving the south still in need. As a result, more and more missionaries have moved into the region, working with the people, and doing the best that they can.

Education Questions

There are a few questions running through my head these days about education and rural Uganda.
1. How do you increase the capacity of a school when there is such a high teacher turnover rate? For example, not even a year ago my organization sponsored a workshop on lesson planning. Today, only one teacher is left from that workshop.
2. Child-centered learning requires access to materials. Of which many of the schools I work with have very little. Picture dirt floors, wood benches, blackboards, charcoal used as chalk, no books, no electricity, a few pencils to share with the students, and old notebooks. How can you train teachers in child-centered methodology despite their limitations? Even if someone supplies these materials, they do not last long.
3. How can local village schools be grafted into the larger understanding of education, specifically government monitored education?
4. Universal Primary Education is fabulous. I am complete supporter. However, it does not reach the poorest. You still have to pay for school fees, books, top-up teacher salaries and uniforms, to name only a few things. Besides a never-ending dependency of child-sponsorship, how can these children get to school?
5. How can girls who have reached puberty stay in school and not leave for one week every month?
6. How can you train children in agriculture plus the normal academic subjects? Once a child is educated through secondary (high) school, the likelihood of them returning to their farming roots is very small. The job, in their eyes, is beneath them. Yet there are few jobs outside of farming.
7. How do you increase the quality of education so that the information children receive will help them in the long-run?

If anyone has any answers, let me know.

Saturdays- Jewelry and the Nile

Today, I decided to be a bit of a tourist and go to Bujagali Falls, which is part of the Nile. It is stunningly beautiful! My friend and boda driver took me out and we enjoyed seeing the falls together. It is quite a bumpy ride out to the site, but once you get there it is all worth it. There are really no words to describe its beauty so here are two pictures for you to enjoy.


Lovin' the Nile!



Stunningly beautiful!

Last Saturday the NGO sponsored a jewelry-making course for deaf children at a local primary school. Bernard, a skilled jeweler, whose shop is near our office, led the course. There were nearly thirty students learning how to string beads. Typical to children anywhere, they eagerly began, with giggles of excitement as they worked for four hours on their new skill. Below are a few pictures to capture the day.



Hard at work!



Too cute for words.

The Report Card is in for Education in Uganda

This week a report came out from Campaign for Education, and many other major supporters, addressing the 60 countries where it is the worst to have a child in school. Unfortunately, Uganda made the list. Not only is it the worst place for a child to get an education in East Africa, it is the eleventh worse in the world.

This week in the newspaper there was an article about the government disputing the validity of the study, saying that they were asking questions of the students that were too difficult and not at level. Perhaps they are right, the questions were too difficult for their students- but compared to global standards, they should not be.

Education is a messy situation in this country. In 1997 Universal Primary Education (UPE) was implemented for a maximum of four children per family, and in 2002 laws were passed for all children to have a free primary education. I wish that “free” were actually the case. Uniforms, books, food, dormitory, and paper/writing utensils are not free. Thus making what should be a free education difficult to attain for the poorest of the country.

Uganda has put into place measures to increase the education level their children receive. Therefore, to be ranked so low in this report is not only a blow to their ego but it is discouraging to see that the efforts they have taken have not increased the quality of the education significantly (at least to global standards).

When I read this article and the conversation about the results, my heart is pained. Over the course of years, much of the issues addressing the developing world do not affect me the way it use to. Development practitioners become numb to the problems as the years pass by. For whatever reason, this report got to me. Perhaps it is because I work with schools, teachers, and children on a daily basis. It is not only a statistic, but it is much more tangible.

I work with the children who cannot read the alphabet in grade three. I work with the children who cannot solve a basic division problem as well. This report is based on government and private schools. I cannot imagine what the statistics would look like if they surveyed non-formal community-based organization run schools. The schools that I work with!

Perhaps this report only reinforces the need to continue the work that my NGO, Fount of Mercy, is doing! Working with teachers and schools to increase their ability to teach the national curriculum well. To give children who will never have the opportunity to go to college, let alone secondary school, the best primary education they can get. I work with teachers to increase their ability to teach, but really so the children gain a better education. One in which is their human right and will better their lives for years to come.

Here are some key statistics in regards to the importance of education according this report:
• The cost of failing to provide a good quality education for all children in poor countries could be as much as $70 billion a year, due to lost economic growth.
• No country has ever achieved continuous and rapid economic growth without first having at least 40% of adults able to read and write.
• An adult who has completed primary education is likely to earn 50% more than an adult who has never been to school.
• A single year of primary school can increase the wages of people earn later in life by 5-15% for boys and even more for girls.


For more statics and information please download the report here: http://www.campaignforeducation.org/docs/reports/1goal/1Goal%20School%20Report.pdf

Home Sick

Today I am contemplating what to write for this weeks update. The only thing I can say is that I was sick. Which leads me to write a blog post about health care in Uganda, well at least a commentary on my personal experience. I apologize in advance for the lack of pictures. The only thought in my head was to see a doctor and feel better. Therefore, the camera stayed at home.

For the past ten days I haven’t been feeling well, but nothing that would really prevent me from working. Then on Sunday it hit. I doubt that many of you need the details, considering that this is a public blog and symptoms are not really exciting to read unless you are a doctor. Lets just say, I was sick. Really, really sick.

I spent Sunday and Monday praying I would get better. Fighting strange symptoms that would not compute to the normal illness one might find in the States. Tuesday I spoke with a dear friend, Dorien, who is a nurse and conveniently lives in the apartment above me. After a brief consultation and a call to her mom, we determined I needed to see a doctor. She gave me the numbers of two doctors that the muzungus use. I called the first on the list, Dr. Debbie, and she answered. Here is the first cultural difference! Unless you knew the doctor personally, you would never schedule an appointment with a doctor directly. Yet I did. Dr. Debbie is Australian who has lived in Uganda for six years and works for a clinic that is respected around the world.
Wednesday I woke up, took a boda to the compound that Dr. Debbie lives and works. After greeting a handful of men, I was directed to wait in the hallway. Dr. Debbie emerged and I she brought me into her office/examination room. Quite literally, there was a desk, a few chairs, medical supplies, and an examination table in the corner. After discussing my symptoms, her looking at my head, and feeling my stomach, she believed I had a virus. She wrote on a paper and instructed me to go and get blood work done at a different clinic.

I hopped on a boda, and directed the driver to where I needed to go. I enter this compound and there were 20-30 individuals waiting outside in the courtyard, all looking very ill. I walked into the building and up to the front desk and told them what I needed. The receptionist flatly responded that it would be 15,000 shillings (roughly $7). I hand her the money and she tells me to go to the back, through the red door. I entered right when a man finished drawing someone’s blood. I hand him my papers and he directs me to wait. I proceed to watch two other people’s blood get drawn in front of me, which Ugandan’s call bleeding. I suppose you are bleeding but purposefully which is why American English has a different term. In addition, Americans are very private people both in daily life and with medical issues. This is not the case for Ugandans. I saw everything.

The room was divided in half, divided by a glass wall. On one side was a few chairs a tall table and behind the table another chair where the lab tech drew the blood. On the other side of the room was where the blood was tested. A few men, listening to the radio, worked on wooden tables, with microscopes that reminded me of high school biology class. When my turn came, I told the man that my veins were difficult to find. To which he immediately responded by having me sit in the lab for one of the other men to draw my blood. At which point, we all began to chat about life (read=them incredibly curious as to why a white woman was sitting in their lab and if I was available to date). Miraculously enough this lab tech was able to draw my blood on the first try! Please know, that most American lab techs are never, ever able to draw my blood out of my arm! Or should I say, able to bleed me.

An hour later, my results were done and I went back to Dr. Debbie’s office. Unfortunately, I missed her by a few minutes and sat to wait for her return. During that time, I spoke with the man who cleans the compound, and watched as Dr. Debbie’s children run up and down the halls getting lunch prepared. About halfway through my wait, a young man walked in looking terrible ill. He has only been here for three weeks but from a non-trained eye, it looked like he had Malaria. I felt so bad for the man as he seemed completely full of anxiety to the fact that he was sick. I am sure his anxiety was a combination of being in a new country, being sick, and not knowing what he would do. Yet it is so common for people to become ill! I am constantly hearing about people in the hospital, people dying, etc. that it has become normal. Sickness is part of life anywhere in the world- but illness that is preventable with modern medicine and yet people still suffer, is part of life in Uganda.

Finally, Dr. Debbie returned, read my results, and wrote (in my notebook) the medication I should buy. In Uganda, you do not need a prescription. I went to the pharmacy, told them what I wanted, and they sold it to me. Many people will often for-go the doctor and head straight to the pharmacy, explaining their symptoms and requesting their advice on medication. After spending $1.50 on medication, I proceeded to my house where I crashed, exhausted and sick.

All in all, I spent roughly $30 on doctor’s fees, blood work, transportation, and medication. In the United States, people would call that a good deal. In Uganda, people don’t have that kind of money. I am not wealthy, to American standards, to any extent. I would probably fall under the poverty line given the fact that I am taking out student loans. However, I am wealthy compared to the majority of people I interact with on a regular basis. My wealth was able to provide the necessary doctors, blood work and medication so that I will be better in a few days. For others, their lack of wealth would could potentially be life threatening.

Teaching under the Trees

Today I spent the day in at one of my favorite site locations. Just a preface: I like each site and organization I work for. They all have very distinct personalities, work, and goals. Each day I am excited to see how the day’s work will unfold.

However, I especially enjoy going to one of my schools, located in Bulabandi. After a long taxi ride into the next district (state), and a daring boda ride to the village- which includes avoiding potholes, going over huge dirt piles that remind me of dirt-bike racing, and then through a footpath that is surrounded by fields- I arrive at the school. Before I have a chance to pay my boda driver, the children swarm. They sing songs of greetings, while simultaneously mob me for a hug. After the initial attack of children, the teacher organizes them and they begin to sing a bit more. The ones, who have decided I am their best friend, stick close. There is absolutely no way to describe to you how wonderful these children are. My heart fills with joy- yet I know their lives are not easy. One little girl, Gloria, never leaves my side. She is in nursery (preschool) and is as cute as a button, although incredibly shy. The teachers will tell her to go home (since nursery is only half-day) and yet she silently refuses. It is only when I am done with lunch and we are about to begin our teacher-lesson does she leave. I will take a picture of her sometime soon.

While I enjoy the children, my main role is to work with the teachers. After a lunch of poshu (boiled maize flower) and beans, we dive into the material. Today we talked about learning styles, took a quiz to find out our own learning style, and then brainstormed ideas on how to teach lessons to meet the needs all learning styles. These teachers are very enthusiastic about learning new concepts around teaching and also to improve their classrooms. They are good with the kids, get along well, and are enjoyable to work with. They are still feeling me out, figuring out who I am and what kind of relationship will become of my bi-monthly visits. I hope someday, to be (to some extent) grafted into their school and community.

While our conversation on learning styles continues, I cannot help but look around and be amazed. We sit under a large tree, out of the sun, talking about children and teaching, while the schoolgirls play a version of handball/cricket and the boys play soccer. It is quite picturesque and I truly feel blessed to be here.

Field Visit Review

Pictures speak a thousand words. Below are pictures from two of my four days out on the field. I had a fabulous time interacting with the participants of four CBOs. The women that comprise these organizations are strong, taking care of their children and/or grandchildren in addition to farming or other income activities. They are mostly farmers that are learning sewing, crafts, or baking skills to supplement their income.




One of the women apart of a tailoring class hard at work.



Ida in her home. She was showing me all of her beaded necklaces.


Three women involved in the Bread Basket Project



The process of baking bread in the village!



In personal news, as a result of the power and water being out for nearly 48 hours, I found the fastest Internet in town. It is at a medieval restaurant where the waiters dress up in bright green peasant shirts and have theatre on weekend nights. Its great! (Not to mention, mzungu (white) food that is served is fabulous!)

The Nile

Today, I spent the afternoon reading for my literature review overlooking the Nile River and Lake Victoria. It was a stunning view and at times, I was distracted from my reading! Thankfully, I made it right before the rains came pouring down! I really have no words to describe how magnificent it was to see the rain, the water, and the green hills. So instead, I have uploaded a picture that, unfortunately, does not do the view justice. As I sat reading, I could not be more overwhelmed with the fact that I am incredibly blessed. Few people from my country have the opportunity to get a masters degree, even fewer have the opportunity to live in an amazing country that is blessed with a powerful river. I am not sure why I was chosen to be in Uganda this year, or why I have been given the privilege of obtaining another degree, but I am incredibly thankful.



In other news, I spent the week meeting with more stakeholders, avoiding muddy roads, and celebrating the third birthday of a little boy with his family and friends. I am starting to get a feel of this town, the rhythm of life and the work that I have before me.

I spent one day this week, working with Robert, and being introduced to many of the women involved in the baking project. The original goal of the day was to talk about their record keeping and to gain more trust. Lets just say, plans never go to plan here and I ended up on a wonderful, adventurous ride through the village- stopping at the homes of key women in the group. These are strong women who hold their households together, raise their children/grandchildren and manage to still be involved in a baking project. I am excited to work with them as I see so much potential!

Well, I should post this before the internet goes out. Cheers!

Celebration

Today I was invited to attend the 25th anniversary of a mission’s organization in Uganda. I went and enjoyed the celebration full of speeches from the most honored, choir songs, and of course- a feast of Ugandan food. Ironically enough, it was my first time eating Ugandan in Uganda. Waves of memories from Kenya mixed with my school group’s outings to the local Ugandan restaurant in Boston came flooding back. This was a huge celebration, in a wonderful location. The view from this compound was stunning, with a wonderful view of lake Victoria and its islands. I wish I had taken a picture!

After sitting through the program, eating lunch, talking with a few individuals, we decided instead of taking a boda back to the main road, that we would walk. We joined up with a few women from the celebration who lived close by. One woman, full of joy, linked arms with me as we walked down the road. Her presence was full of life, her smile was large, and her eyes danced! I was completely in awe of her ability to pull me out of a potentially embarrassing situation with her mother and whisk me down the street. Not five minutes later, she stopped and showed me her home and we parted. About halfway through our walk, the rain decided to pour! Huge, thick drops fell from the sky. Thankfully, a group of women in a long row of homes called us over to their front porch so that we could stay dry. Without their help, we would have been soaking wet within a few minutes. One invited us into her house, where we chatted about various topics: the weather, family, where we live, etc. The home was nice, with a few chairs, and a partition between the back half (bedroom) and the front room. Her friend rushed in a few minutes later when she heard that mzungus (white people) had stopped. This girl, probably about my age, had a laugh that was contagious! We stayed until the rain let up and continued on our way.

Rainy season is upon us, which has allowed me to think a lot about rain. When it rains, everything stops. No work is done because it comes down so quickly. I see this beautiful, clean water fall from the sky into the fields and roads. Hardly anyone catches the rain that I have seen. Access to clean water is a problem here, and yet a lot of it falls on a daily basis. How can people capture the rain to make use of it? I know there are models out there, but is there a way to train individuals to do it themselves? Perhaps another project, another organization, and a different dream…

Firsts

This week has been filled with firsts and also subtle reminders of why I love East Africa. Uganda is similar to Kenya, which I believe is one reason why it has been somewhat easy to transition. Yet, I am still waiting for the moment where I just completely break down into culture shock. So far, so good though!

On to the firsts. I rode my first boda-boda this week. For those of you who don't know, boda-bodas are motorcycles you hire. They are everywhere in Uganda! You flag a man down, hop on the back of his boda and he will take you wherever you want to go (for a small fee of course). Thankfully Lori, my supervisor, started me on a small route from our home into town. After my first ride, I got off and was shaking. Mind you, this was my first time on a motorcycle ever! With my practicality constantly in my head, I have always thought of them as one of the most dangerous modes of transportation and therefore have avoided them like the plague. I will apologize now for those who read this and absolutely love motorcycles. Now that taking a boda is a practical mode of transportation, I think I will grow to enjoy it. The next thing I conquered with bodas this week was to ride side-saddle. What is a woman to do when she is wearing a skirt and has to ride a boda?

I also met two of the three organizations I will predominately work with. Both are a little out of town in nearby villages. Both I am excited to work with for varying reasons. More to come on these I am sure. For now, lets just say that I am incredibly honored to be part of their work. One thing I quickly realized during these visits is that I need to learn some of the language. While English is commonly spoken, not everyone has a strong command of my language. Hopefully language lessons will start in the next few weeks. I'm still debating if I will just take lessons to learn the basics or move beyond that. Any suggestions?

Besides meeting the organizations, taking bodas and getting a feel of the town, I have also immersed myself in Ugandan curriculum for grades one through four. I've read a fair amount, asked questions, and am ready to dive in with the teachers and students. To give some background, Uganda has a new curriculum which is focused more on problem-solving and creative thinking that the rote method of teaching. I am working with a few schools to help them transition to this new style of teaching.

Well, off to make dinner with Lori and most likely watch a bit of the t.v. show Chuck.

Cheers!

Made it!

I made it to Uganda! I feel so blessed by the entire trip. In Chicago, one of my classmates, Megan, was on my flight to London. We talked before we got on the plane and then after we landed. It was nice to see her, hear what she is doing, and start my trip out with a Hellerite!

Literally, two minutes after I said goodbye to Megan, I entered the bathroom and met a woman who was also traveling to Uganda. Mind you, I had a ten hour lay-over in London and I thought it was a bit odd that someone happened to be on my Chicago flight who was also going to Uganda. She suggested that I go into the city with her and take a bus tour. Now, I have never been a big fan of bus tours. Somehow I have never thought it was the way to go- you really don’t get to experience the culture of a place, just see its buildings. Well, while I didn’t experience much direct British culture (with the exception of food ordering), I did see a great many buildings. I am even willing to publicly announce that bus tours are not a bad option! Especially if the public transportation might be confusing to get to various touristy areas. I had a wonderful time getting to know this woman (turns out she is from the area my brother lives!) and touring London with her. My hope is to be able to connect with her at least once while I am here.

After we returned to the airport, we spent some time having dinner, freshening up, and people watching in England’s best terminal (terminal 5). The flight to Uganda was incredibly empty with an odd mix of people. East Africans, study abroad students, older looking aid workers, missionaries, tourists, and the occasional volunteer. I must say, the steward staff were the best I have ever had! They were so nice, friendly, and talkative. I am going to assume that the majority, if not all, the people on this flight like to travel and enjoy cultures- so we generally all got along.

John, a local man, picked me up from the airport and I enjoyed the 4 hour drive to where I am currently. I asked him a lot of basic questions about the culture and society. He in returned, took it upon himself to play tour guide and point out various spots along the way (i.e. the Coca Cola factory, tea, sugar, and banana plantations, the section of the city that sells radios, etc.)

John dropped me off and I was warmly greeted by Lori, my new supervisor, and her puppy, Muffin. Lori is great- I am looking forward to working with her! And the puppy, well- she is super cute! I am kinda glad we have a dog since I have wanted one for so long.